Chennai's Matsya refocuses its menu on Udupi dishes

Chennai restaurant Matsya is expanding its traditional Udupi offerings 76 years after its predecessor, Udupi Home, was founded. Family-business partner Ram Bhat discussed the menu changes and the establishment's history with The Hindu.

Ram Bhat said the changes were intended to introduce the current generation of diners to regional cooking. The menu highlights ragi dosa, jowar dosa and thatte idli. New offerings include tomato uthappam and apple bajji.

The restaurant also plans to add kuku rasayana, or mambala, a no-cook dessert made with ripe mangoes, fresh coconut milk and jaggery. Other planned dishes include rice-and-jaggery halbai, the sweet flatbread holige, also known as obbattu, and hyagreeva maddige made with chana dal, jaggery, coconut and ghee.

Some Udupi snacks previously available from 3pm to 7pm are to be served from noon to 7pm. Ram Bhat said the business adapts its menu to its customers while keeping regional food central.

Shaama Bhat founded Udupi Home in 1950. Its proximity to Egmore station, hospitals and government offices attracted visitors from Udupi and Mangalore. They stayed in its accommodation and ate familiar dishes at the ground-floor restaurant.

Hari Bhat renamed the restaurant Matsya in 1980. Udupi Home remained the name of its accommodation business. Architect K Ramanan, who also worked on Adyar Gate Hotel, designed Matsya's interior.

Ram Bhat recalled that late-night service began during blackouts in 1962, amid the India–China war. Idlis and filter coffee were served until 2am. That tradition continues for customers arriving after late film screenings and nights out.

In 1992, Ram Bhat and Prasad Bhat took over management and refreshed the menu for younger customers and office workers. They added tandoor dishes, cold coffee, falooda and Udupi thali. The whole restaurant was air-conditioned by that year.

Ram Bhat recalled former Tamil Nadu chief minister MG Ramachandran ordering badam kheer for receptions. He also named RM Veerappan, Nagesh and Cho Ramaswamy among the establishment's customers.

The kitchen team has traditionally been connected to the region behind the food, while helpers and managers came from southern Tamil Nadu and Tirunelveli. During the pandemic, the partner said daily rasam production rose from two large cauldrons to six. The family continues to run the establishment into its third generation.